Getting Started, and
Things to Know About Before You Start




    Before you get your guinea pigs, it would be wise to first:
  • learn about the species (it has quirks and may not be something you actually want to deal with);
  • research what sales opportunities are realistically available to you;
  • determine if doing this is actually a good match for your situation (and you personally).



    Inbreeding is characteristic of show-type hobbyist breeding. I recommend that as a pet breeder, you go the opposite direction, and focus on outcrossing to the best of your ability. The show-type, inbred animals I've owned had health problems, worst among them for pregnant sows being immune system problems that contribute to upper respiratory illness. Immune system weakness can turn what's supposed to be business assets (healthy breeding animals) into financial liabilities (animals that get sick after getting pregnant, which is often ruinous).

    Inbred guinea pig sows are known to be a weak links in production, producing fewer babies and smaller babies within those litters. If there is a "win" for a pet producer in using inbred guinea pigs (especially sows), I don't know what it is.

     Whenever I start using a guinea pig that I know is from pedigree breeding, I treat it as a risk factor. I set up for a long-shot outcross to something as different as I can arrange and hope for the best.

 
     I recommend that you not play to low welfare standards in guinea pig breeding - this is the wrong species to cut welfare corners on.

     In some areas, my understanding is that the legally-mandated welfare standards for maintaining guinea pigs are locally-determined. Further, being classified as rodents, the legal welfare standards for their care may be lower in some settings than for classical pet species (such as cats and dogs).
 
    Some of your competition may be rolling with lower welfare standards than you are, and utilizing this to boost their bottom line. Maybe your local competition is physically located in a different area (or even in a different country) and they ship to your local pet stores. Maybe your competition is getting away with something they shouldn't be. Who knows.

    If you're competing with someone who is more efficient expense-wise for some reason, you need as much of an edge as you can get.

     Inbred breeding stock with an inclination toward genetic disease would be the opposite of an edge.

     Utilizing outcrossed breeding stock can be one part of minimizing your expenses and losses, regardless of what your competition may be doing differently, or what business advantages they might have.




    It is likely that you will be getting young sows that you will be starting in their first pregnancies. These sows should weigh between 500 and 600 grams when they are mated by the boar for the first time. Sows will generally be between 2.5 and 3 months old when they attain this weight.

    Although I usually cannot personally arrange this, I think the ideal arrangement for first-time young sows might be to have them be mated by a boar that is their same age. A young boar's sperm count is lower than older boars in their breeding prime, and maybe this would effect fewer babies in that first litter. A sow's first litter having fewer babies is in my experience ideal for various reasons (such as smaller litters being less stress on the sow and considering the young sow's more limited milk supply). If you can't arrange this and will be using an older boar, don't worry about it, its pretty common to do that.

    Sows are sexually fertile for a while before they reach 500 - 600 grams, so beware of a sexually-mature boar being in with sows that are smaller than this.

    If for some reason your young sows are not mated on time and you still want to use them, try to ensure that they deliver their first litter before or at their 6-month birthday at the latest (so, mated by the boar something like a week before their 4-month birthday). It's not a guaranteed catastrophe if they are bred late, but there is a risk. It is possible that a late-bred sow's pelvis may not open up at birthing time (it can fuse closed with increasing age in this species). If a sow's pelvis is fused and there's babies inside of her, its either a euthanasia or an emergency trip to an exotic veterinary surgeon for a c-section (and if you go that  route, hopefully you get a mother that feels good enough to nurse after that, which is not guaranteed).

    Instead of getting young, first-time sows, it would theoretically be possible to use sows that have already had at least one litter. But in practice you won't tend to have access to this. I think it's because sows' usable breeding lifespans don't tend to work out this way.



    Boars become sexually mature a bit later than sows. Puberty for boars is considered to be on average at 18 weeks, but there could be individual variability, as sperm motility may be seen as early as 11 weeks.

     Do not house intended breeding boars on wood shavings. Some boars housed this way will become infertile because of the wood shavings causing issues with their male parts.    


    In terms of mature but virgin / inexperienced boars: I have had success with boars that are 1 year old virgins, but if I have a choice for a first-time sow, for timing reasons I prefer an experienced boar or a young one (which will have a lot of drive).

    It is possible for boars to have sexual performance problems. Especially with first-time sows, you want to be sure you're using a boar that does not have this kind of issue.

    Some issues that boars can have are:
  • Boar is young, small, and inexperienced
    • (these do get it right eventually and they have a lot of energy; my concern is getting it done on time if time is tight).
  • Boar is old:
    • difficulty standing tall enough to mount sows,
    • cannot chase them well,
    • cannot get it up any more, which is dangerous for the boar's health because his male part could come out but not do much other than hang there, and he would drag it on the cage floor while chasing a sow and injure it.
  • Boar was a virgin for too long or not sexually active enough, doesn't seem to know how to get the job done.
    • keeps doing it wrong, like mounting the sow's head or shoulders
    • climbs up too far over her back
    • may dump his load on the cage floor next to the sow
    It's much easier to find boars for sale which have breeding experience than sows that have been bred. I've gotten a number of these off of the local equivalent of Craigslist. 2 of them were the kind of outcrosses I like, and one of those was a homogeneous dark-eyed white (which was very nice to have). Most of them were a genetic sense good quality.



    When you are getting the first guinea pigs, you won't necessarily have much choice about which animals you get. The sources of guinea pigs available in one area are not always numerous.   

    Once you are established, you generally use more sows than boars. One strategy to maintain genetic diversity is to use sows that you breed yourself and bring in new, unrelated boars to cover them.





Chirodiscoides caviae
"Cavy Mites"
"Fur Mites"



Assume all newly-aquired guinea pig have this.
You should not let your guinea pigs be infested with this.
It is easy to remove when done correctly.

-------------

A sign of this is, guinea pigs using their teeth to
chew their skin in the area of their rear legs.

--------------

After giving birth, some sows may scratch/bite themselves,
maybe making large, open wounds.

Guinea pigs that are stressed/sick or in warmer temperature cages
can begin scratching and making thin fur spots.

My teddies in particular do not do well with this parasite, but
there could be other coat types that have increased sensitivity.

If you sent babies out for sale with this,
they might start scratching and having symptoms.

------------

Protocol to remove and keep it out:

Revolution/Stronghold (selamectin) topical medication.
It's prescription-only, do what you have to do.

Using the dog formulation (12% w/v solution):

Applied to the skin on the back of the neck:
0.1 ml (1/10th of
a ml) per kilogram of body weight,
(or on smaller guinea pigs, 0.01 per 100 grams of body weight,
these are the very tiny lines on a 1ml syringe).

(This dosage is to the large side
because of this parasite's resistance and long life cycle.)

You do not have to treat the cage or environment.

Wait 2 weeks.
Repeat the treatment one more time.
Safe to assume no longer transmissible within the week after dose #2.
As far as I can see, safe for all ages / any reproductive status.

-----

To keep it out, treat ones you have which have not yet been done,
isolate new ones 2-3wk while treating with the 2 doses.

Don't waste time or money testing for it
(it's prone to false negatives anyway)







Ringworm
 
If something has this, it will be in localized area(s) on the skin.
You may be able to see where it is forming ring-like shapes.
 
Carefully check anything new you are bringing in.
Localized sores or scabby areas could be ringworm.

The best treatment I know for this is topical
enilconazole
(trade name Imaverol Vet)
(1ml of Imaverol Vet is mixed into 50ml of water)

As of 2024,
Imaverol is available world-wide except for in the United States
which is inappropriately blocking it.
It's illegal to ship this into USA.
I've heard you will get big fines if you try to ship it in.

I've used other topical antifungals to remove ringworm such as
ketoconazole shampoo (Nizoral and cheaper generic equivalents)
and non-prescription "Azole" antifungal creams.

Its highly contagious and can persist in the environment.
Hopefully, you don't get a big problem with this.

People can catch this,
kids seem more susceptible than adults.






Pregnancy Toxemia
There is a catastrophic condition called pregnancy toxemia. The fetuses die quickly, plus you frequently lose the sow (in spite of rehabilitation efforts).

The short reason it happens is, the guinea pig's intestine is not processing any food.

To my knowledge the cause of this can be:

  • the sow stopped eating, for any reason,
  • food cannot move through the digestive tract for some reason,
  • part of the digestive tract died (such as the intestines) which is of course irreversible.
    • To my knowledge this can happen because some mechanical situation caused compression of important blood vessels in the gut:
      • overhandling
      • incorrect handling
      • fetus weight and position
Handling of late pregnancy sows is to be minimized!




    There is nothing inherently wrong with using guinea pigs sold by pet stores for starting a pet breeding operation, but its good to ask the right questions, to see if those animals are a good match for your needs. If the pet store attendant cannot answer your questions, maybe the store owner knows more.



    Before you buy animals, be aware of what coat types and colors are preferred by buyers as well as basic color and coat genetics. It makes sense to start with coat color and eye traits that buyers actually want. The
Sale Group Compositions page should be helpful in this.

    Some good questions about color to ask the seller are below. None of the answers to these questions automatically disqualify the guinea pig, sometimes it is all in how you use it. Also, the seller not having much information does not necessarily disqualify it.
1) What colors are the parents? If it's an inbred show type, you may be able make some assumptions about this.

2) Is either of the parents a pink-eyed white? Has one of the parents made a pink-eyed white before?

3) If it is a smooth-coat: do either of the parents have a teddy, rex, or hairless background?

4) Is any roan/dalmation known in the parents' background?
 


    There's lots of color genetics involved with guinea pigs. When starting out breeding, there's a few of them which you should learn about before you start putting sows and boars together.



    In color genetics, there is a special color consideration which, if you don't understand it, you could be confused about the colors of your babies.

     If a guinea pig is completely one color, or one color plus white patches, what you see is not necessarily what you get, in terms of babies.

     Phenotype means what the guinea pig looks like. Genotype means the genes that created the appearance.

RED-ONLY AND DARK-ONLY GENOTYPES AND SOME CORRESPONDING PHENOTYPES
Red-only.
dark cannot display in any way.

  The pictures below show a few examples of red-only guinea pigs, including dilution genes that only affect the red color.

No dark areas, only red and dilution versions of red.
Never agouti.

There are whole-pig dilution genes that are not represented in the pictures below. They turn all colors in the entire guinea pig lighter, some making the eyes pink.

(genotype: e with e)

Dark-only.
Red patches (mostly) cannot display.

The pictures below show a few examples
of dark-only guinea pigs.

Dark or agouti (or argente),
possibly with white patching. 
(Mostly) no red areas.

 There are whole-pig dilution genes that turn all colors in the entire guinea pig lighter, usually making the eyes red or pink.

genotype: E with E
genotype: E with e^p
genotype: E with e

Red and
                    white
Red (and white patching).

Buff
Buff (with white patching)

Buff and white
Cream? Can I call it butterscotch?
But still genetic red-only.

Pale and white
Light cream I guess,
  I personally call this "death pale".
But genetic red-only.


Dark-eyed white
Dark-eyed white can/should be this genotype

silver
                    agouti and white
"Silver" or "grey" agouti.
with white patching.

Black and white
Black (and white patching).

  Lilac and white
A dark-only genotype with a whole-pig dilute.
Her eyes had a red/pink glint to them.


    If the guinea pig does not have both dark and red-patched areas, it may be a red-only or dark-only genotype. However, this determination:
    Red-only and dark-only genotype guinea pigs do not display all of their genetics in their colors. To help understand what genetics it really has, you could ask these questions.
Were any of the parents pink-eyed whites? (you always want to find this out if you can).

If it's red-only, is one/both of the parents agouti or argente? (important).

Did either of the parents display red only, or dark only (not counting white)?

Did either of the parents display both dark and red (patching)? If so, what were the red/black percentages like?

What percentage of white did the parents have?

Were either of the parents dark-eyed whites? If so, was one of its grandparents a pink-eyed white?

Especially if the parent information is unavailable: what do other babies in the same litter look like? Do have patches of both red and dark? In the case of red-only babies, are any of the littermates agouti?

For example, see the litter below. The light-colored ones are red-only genotype, but the one in the middle is black+red patched (the cream being a form of red). We note that he is almost completely black with a little bit of cream (red) patching and he is not agouti.


Red littermates, one black


   The genetics involved with this is called "extension". Extension determines which of these 3 color organizations a guinea pig has: red-only, dark-only, or separate patches of red and dark. (White patching when the red and dark are both showing is a different gene)

    Over 100 years ago as of this writing (this is 2020), a symbolic system describing the genetics of guinea pig coat patterns was developed. It utilized Mendelian genetics and was created years before the character of DNA and RNA was understood. The system is in some respects archaic but it is able to document most of the characteristics of extension.

Nucleic acid sequence
If you could speak DNA,
there would be 64 words in 'spoken' DNA,
with 4 sounds in the language creating syllables that are 3 sounds long.
Phrases would be 1 to 4 words long.
All sentences would start with "Well,"
and end with ", yep." ", you know?" or ", seriously."


    This early-1900's system does not give a complete picture, in particular as it has difficulty describing the myriad of dilution intensities (some things maybe being due to DNA repeats). But it's useful to understand extension and some other things.

    The system describes 3 forms of the extension gene, symbolically defined by Heman L. Ibson in 1916 as: 
    Each guinea pig has 2 of these e-looking genes, one from each parent. These genes come together and make these appearances:
1) (E + anything:) Dark-only. For the most part, plain red patched areas cannot display. All colored areas exist as dark. Agouti can display on top of the dark areas if the agouti genetic trait is there too. White patches may be there. Might have very little bit of red patching if it's E + e^p. (Note: there are some dark-and-whites that are made a different way).
2) (e + e) Opposite of above - Red-only. Dark colors cannot display and all colored areas exist as red. Notably, agouti cannot display, even if it is in the genetics -- you can have a red-only guinea pig that makes agouti babies. White patches may be there. For some reason, more e + e guinea pigs are born than are statistically supposed to be when e^p is taken into account.
3) (e^p + e) and
     (e^p + e^p)


Dark and red areas form separately-displaying patches. This is called "tricolor" if you have white patching at the same time. Agouti can display on top of the dark areas if the agouti genetic trait is there, but the red stays plain red. In some guinea pigs, if the dark area is small, a white patch might be covering it up, making it look deceptively like a red-only e+e genotype with white patching.
4) What I would call a "real" dark-eyed white requires e+e and some other things.
     This affects you in this kind of example scenario.

     What if you are starting guinea pig breeding, and you have a mostly black boar that also has some very small area of red on it and a little white. You know that  buyers wouldn't be in in love with getting batches of babies that have mostly black and look practically the same (such as if you made lots of copies of your boar).

     You found a young sow in a pet store that you are considering buying for him, she is mostly-red with some white. A first impression might be, it seems like the colors might balance out, and you would get babies with the 2 colors showing?

     If you understand extension, you realize that it doesn't necessarily work that way.

     You know that the sow is e+e, which is a genetic trait that causes all colored areas to display as red.

You assume that your boar is E + e^p genotype. So:
    
Boar = E + e^p
Sow =  e + e

To know what babies they would make, take one extension from each parent and find all combinations:
It's only 2 combinations available in this case because the sow is a little boring (e + e).

Babies:
E + e   , and 
e + e^p.

  They will make babies that have a 50% chance of being E + e (dark with probably some white patching), and the other 50% would be some kind of tricolor (dark+red patching, probably with some white patching).

Also:

- you would know that t
he sow could be a non-displaying agouti. Agouti is dominant, so if she has 1 agouti gene, 50% of all babies will have agouti genetics. If she's carrying 2, all babies will. Maybe you could use some agouti. So you at least know to ask about agouti in the parents or littermates.

- you would recognize that if the red-and-white sow has a LOT of white, there's a chance that she actually has e^p in there, but a dark area has been hidden by white patching being over top of it. So, you're looking close for any hints that she's really a tricolor. If she's actually a tricolor with a lot of white patching (e + e^p), she will make a different set of babies with your boar than if she really is an e + e.


 


    When producing pet guinea pigs, it is important to use sow and boar combinations that will not regularly produce "pink-eyed white" babies (shortened term: PEW).

    PEWs are pure white with pink eyes, although areas on white guinea pigs' bodies that get a lot of cool air flow such as ears and feet may turn a dark color (especially if certain genetics bring out these "points").

Pink-eyed white
Not evil, just white and fluffy with pink eyes

    Pet store buyers generally do not prefer PEWs. Sometimes it takes a long time for pet stores to sell them and because of that, pet store managers are not happy to see them (especially if they are boys).

    Some pet store managers do not want to take them because they think they might be "lethal white" (different topic, not the same thing, but is also colored like this).

    It takes 2 PEW genes, one from each parent, for a PEW baby to occur. So if you have 2 normally-colored guinea pigs that are both PEW carriers, each baby has a 25% chance of being PEW.

    In terms of the baby's appearance (phenotype), getting 2 PEW genes makes most of the baby's color genetics stop making a difference. The effects of agouti, extension and so-on get wiped out. You see nothing but that white.

    It is preferable to know beforehand if something you're considering getting is carrying a PEW gene. It is of course possible to proceed without knowing what you got and work with what you get. Making a PEW baby or two isn't the end of the world.

    It is okay to use PEWs and PEW carriers for pet breeding. PEW has its uses. If PEW and buff come together, it can make cream. A PEW with 2 (e) genes will make 100% dark-eyed whites if the dark-eyed white is not a PEW carrier (it's 50% if one (e) ). You can use a PEW to help figure out if a different guinea pig is a carrier of 1 PEW gene. The only thing about them is, you would generally not aim to produce PEWs in sale batches of babies.


Question about baby that is not PEW

Impact
Are both parents normal colored, but they make PEWs once in a while when bred together?

Statistically, 2 out of 3 of normal-colored babies they make are passing a single gene for PEW.



Are both parents normal colored, and one of the parents made PEWs with a different mate, but the other one never, ever makes them?

Breeding these 2 together, some of their babies will pass PEW gene, but the babies themselves will never pop as PEW. No problem for pet sales, but if you keep some back for breeding, you'll want to be aware that PEW might be there.



Is the baby:
  • dark-eyed, and
  • its red is "buff" colored (sort of dark yellow or light orange instead of red, not light enough to be cream)?

Baby should not have any PEW gene. You know this because either of the white genes, including PEW, transforms buff into cream.



Is the baby dark-eyed cream?
Baby either has 1 dark-eyed white gene or 1 PEW gene. It passes whichever one it has to 50% of babies.



Is the baby dark-eyed white?

Genetic e+e dark-eyed whites get this way in one of 2 ways. One requires 2 dark-eyed white genes. The other requires 1 dark-eyed white gene and one PEW gene.

Depending upon which it is, it either passes PEW 50% of the time, or not at all. The seller might know which kind if is.

It could also be possible to have a black-and-white with only a few dark areas which were covered up by white patching, which is a separate gene.





    As a pet breeder, you don't have much incentive to intentionally breed "roan" or "dalmatian" guinea pigs. It's not like the buying public is screaming for that, and it's not like you need it in order to make interesting appearances in your babies (you have other possibilities like agouti, patching, brindle, red-dilutions, and so-on). Having roan in your stuff could limit your flexibility as time goes on.

    If 2 roans get mated together, each baby has a 25% chance of being born with a quality-of-life-destroying genetic syndrome. They call those "lethal whites". These screwed-up babies are described this way:
    Individual lethals have variability in how severe their disabilities are. If you look around the internet, you'll see some lethals that people got to survive to adulthood and are keeping alive like a never-ending rehabilitation project.

    It's reportedly possible to have a genetically roan guinea pig that is largely not displaying the trait in its colors, so you don't realize the gene is there.

    I don't use roan guinea pigs, since needing to avoid certain combinations as a welfare priority would be inconvenient for a pet breeding program. I would not suggest someone start with these.



    I don't recommend including the "satin" gene in anything you breed from. It causes the guinea pig to have an extra shiny coat but it is also associated with a painful, under-researched, debilitating bone-lesion syndrome that neither you nor your buyers want to deal with.

Satin guinea pig
These are the only pictures of
a "satin" guinea pig
you need to see.




   If you're selling to pet stores, you may wish to produce either a minority, or none, of sale babies that show up with "whole-body" dilutions creating red or pink eyes. Pet buyers can find this eye color disturbing.


lilac tricolor
This one was pretty in his own way.
(but his eyes were glowing red all the time)
grey and white
Some of these look like someone mixed
cigarette ashes in slightly muddy water.
The dark areas get darker as they get older.
The really dark ones can be a deep grey-black at maturity.


    At least three genetic forms of whole-body dilution seem to be documented, or is it 4? I'm not great on the whole-body dilutions since I have not been intentionally breeding these.

     The whole-body dilutions take all of the colors the guinea pig displays, and lightens them, including the eyes.

    The effect on the eyes can vary in intensity. With some of them, the red effect is slight. With others, it looks like a glowing camera flash all the time. The weirdest ones seem pinker and brighter than PEW eyes.

    It's a non-issue if you are making these as a specialty for select hobbyists who are interested in unusual-looking ones.

    They look like they are giving you the evil eye.


Glowey eyes
One of these guinea pigs is Satan's spawn and wants to kill you in your sleep.
Can you guess which one? (click the picture for a closer look, if you dare...)





    As a pet breeder, you probably do not want to produce masses of "himalayans", or use them as your starting animals.

   Himalayans are pink-eyed whites (PEW) with genetics that support the development of dark "points" (such as on the ears, nose, and feet). They aren't born with points and the points take time to show up. Young himalayans look quite like PEWs.

    A pet store that got a large batch of pretty much identical-looking himalayan babies (which look like PEW) might not be in love with that. For further reference, see Sale Group Compositions.

    The himalayan gene setup reportedly doesn't mix well into the more common color combinations used for pets (tricolor, 2-colors, etc).



Sources:

William Burgos-Paz, Mario Cerón-Muñoz, Carlos Solarte-Portilla (2011). Genetic diversity and population structure of the Guinea pig (Cavia porcellus, Rodentia, Caviidae) in Colombia. Genet Mol Biol. 2011 Oct-Dec; 34(4): 711–718.

Wright, Sewall (1977). Evolution and the Genetics of Populations: A Treatise in Four Volumes. Volume 3: Experimental Results and Evolutionary Deductions. Chapter 3. p. 44. University of Chicago Press.

Wagner, Joseph E.; Manning, Patrick J (1976). The Biology of the Guinea Pig. Academic Press. ISBN 978-0-12-730050-4.

Ibsen, Heman L (1916). Tricolor Inheritance, 1. The Tricolor Series In Guinea-Pigs. https://kippenjungle.nl/kruisingCavia2.html?mgt=A:A/A&fgt=A:A/A

https://kippenjungle.nl/kruisingCavia.html


Cavy Genetics: An Exploration, Originally written by Nick Warren, 1999; Revised and updated by Bryan Mayoh, with input from Simon Neesam.

https://www.wormsandgermsblog.com/2012/08/articles/animals/pocket-pets/guinea-pigs-and-ringworm/

http://www.brooklyn.cuny.edu/bc/ahp/BioInfo/GP/GeneticCode.html

Stoffels-Adamowicz, Eva (2014) THE SATIN SYNDROME IN GUINEA PIGS: Nephropathy, Hyperparathyroidism and Bone Disease of Satin Cavies. Universiteit Gent Research project as part of the Master's Dissertation, Academic year 2013-2014. Retrieved from https://lib.ugent.be/fulltxt/RUG01/002/165/467/RUG01-002165467_2014_0001_AC.pdf March, 2020.

Dario d’Ovidio, Domenico Santoro (2014). Prevalence of fur mites (Chirodiscoides caviae) in pet guinea pigs (Cavia porcellus) in southern Italy. Veterinary Dermatology 25(2) January 2014. Retrieved from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/259984137_Prevalence_of_fur_mites_Chirodiscoides_caviae_in_pet_guinea_pigs_Cavia_porcellus_in_southern_Italy February 2024.

M. Freund (1962), Initiation and Development of Semen Production in the Guinea Pig. Fertility and Sterility, Volume 13, Issue 2, 190 - 201. March 1962. Retrieved from https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S001502821634448X/pdf?md5=5e349faf386fc74491fd14d0a6231d88&pid=1-s2.0-S001502821634448X-main.pdf February 2024

This article also include impressions and information directly from the author's experience.


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