Species and genetic characteristics:
'Guinea pig' often refers to the domestic
guinea pig Cavia porcellus. There are 5 other kinds of guinea
pigs, all wild species that live in South America: Cavia
aperea, Cavia fulgida, Cavia intermedia, Cavia magna, and
Cavia tschudii.
Cavia porcellus was
created through domestication over several thousand years in
pre-Colombian South America, reportedly in the Central Andes.
It was raised primarily for meat production. The first
archaeological evidence of human use of guinea pigs dates to
about 8,000 BC (10,000 years ago), and the domestication began
at least 5,000 years ago.
Guinea pigs and most (possibly
all) of the Caviidae family are unique among rodents in
that dietary vitamin C is obligatory. Like humans, they
can't synthesize vitamin C due to a
mutated gene for L-gulonolactone
oxidase.
In the years before mitochondrial genetic
analysis was possible, it was thought that Cavia aperea was
the genetic parent species to C. porcellus. Its full species
name during that time was Cavia aperea f. porcellus. A 2004
genetic analysis showed that C. aperea was actually one step
removed from a genetic group that contains both C. porcellus
and C. tschudii. The analysis suggests that there may have
been a wild progenitor guinea pig species from which
both
C. porcellus and
C. tschudii are descended.
Figure 3 from Spotorno AE, Valladares JP,
Marin JC, Zeballos H. (2004) Molecular diversity among
domestic guinea-pigs (Cavia porcellus)
and their close phylogenetic relationship with the
Andean wild species Cavia tschudii
References to "guinea pigs" below
all refer to
C. porcellus.
Female guinea pigs are called "sows", and
males are called "boars". There are different kinds of guinea
pigs, such as laboratory-specific
strains with specific genetic
characteristics, pet types with varying coat types and colors,
and meat production types.
Laboratory strain guinea pig boars are
described as being between 900g - 1000g in weight on average,
with sows between 700g - 900g. Outcrossed pet-bred individuals
in my experience can be larger than this, such as 1.5 kg in
males and over 1 kg in females. The largest types of guinea
pigs, such as "Improved Cuy" or "
Mejorado
Cuy", were developed as meat-producing varieties and can be
exceptionally large, as heavy as 3 kg (6.6 lbs).
In general, guinea pigs are not as
genetically healthy as European livestock species. The primary
cause of their genetic illness is the intense inbreeding that
occurred during their domestication in pre-Colombian South
America. Inbreeding of guinea pigs by modern-day breeders,
when it occurs, can represent a further consolidation of
genetic disease. A number of the diseases that guinea pigs are
known for are what would be expected from genetic disease,
such as their not-very-robust immune systems and the high
rates of ovarian cysts in sows.
Opinion:
One way for a guinea pig breeder to
combat the genetic disease inherent in this species is to
prefer outcrossing and lean away from inbreeding.
In practice, I have seen certain of my
guinea pigs with an inbred "show-breeding" background
require as many as 4 generations of outcrossing to
eliminate upper-respiratory-related immune system
deficiencies (the sickness becoming evident at 3+ years of
age). The decreased immune system health of my inbred
show-types seemed clear as compared with my
multi-generation outcrosses. The inbreds get sick easier
and are harder to fix when they do.
Avoiding inbred breeding stock where
possible is the sensible choice for a breeder who intends
to breed pet guinea pigs as a business. Sickly breeding
stock is not a business asset to anyone. Furthermore,
breeding stock with a decreased tendency toward illness is
the correct choice from a standpoint of animal welfare.
Notable: the original source of
inbreeding-supporting philosophies espoused by some animal
breeding associations appears to be the eugenics
movements of the early 20th century.
Environment:
Temperature variation is not well-tolerated
by guinea pigs. This corresponds with the narrow temperature
range in their native habitat in South America. Table below is
an example of one such area.
Example average temperatures. Source:
climatestotravel.com, retrieved February 22, 2020.
There are almost no areas in the northern
hemisphere where the climate supports maintaining guinea pigs
outdoors on a continual basis with acceptable health and
welfare results.
Guinea pigs are recommended to be housed in
temperatures ranging from 64° to 79°F (18° to 26°C), with
relative humidity between 30% and 70%. Air ventilation should
allow for 10 to 15 fresh air changes per hour without causing
drafts. The air changes must use fresh air, not recirculated,
unless there is a filtration system in place to remove
pathogens (such as a properly-managed hepa filter system).
Same-day fluctuations in environmental conditions are to be
minimized.
Extremes in temperature can kill guinea
pigs. Excess heat can be detrimental to their health even for
short periods of time, with temperatures above 75°F - 80°F
potentially able to cause heat stress or stroke. Exposure of
pregnant sows to temperatures of 80°F and above has been seen
to cause birth defects in developing fetuses.
Social Groups
Guinea pigs' natural social groupings are
properly described as harems comprised of one boar and a few
sows (not "herd animals" as is sometimes reported in hobbyist
literature).
Guinea pigs' natural social arrangement is
boars and sows of varying ages co-habitating within
indoor/outdoor/sheltered areas. Within these areas, multiple
harems exist. Reportedly, boars need to be raised from birth
within this kind of social arrangement in order to have
behaviors that are compatible with it.
The relationships among the guinea pigs in
this housing arrangement are more complex than simple harems
would suggest. Changes in the alpha position in the male
hierarchy can occur as the result of male-female associations,
not just male-male competition.
It is more usual for pet breeders in the
northern hemisphere to not use the above housing arrangement
(multiple harems in one pen), instead maintaining harems
separately and utilizing a single breeding boar.
Domestic guinea pigs' social associations
and behaviors are different from those of wild species.
Studies that examine the social behavior of wild guinea pigs
are not great sources for understanding domestic guinea pig
behavior.
Breeding and pregnancy
Use sows for breeding that have either
previously delivered a litter, or are still young enough to be
able to deliver their first litter before they reach 6 months
of age. Sows that have not given birth while they are young
frequently have their pelvic bones fuse together. The pelvis
then stays closed at birthing time, making vaginal births
impossible.
A sow's usable breeding life is something
like 2 + years, or maybe 3 depending upon the individual sow
and the breeding schedule she is on. Health issues can occur
that necessitate earlier retirement, so not all sows are able
to be used for the average duration.
Older sows (1.5 years +), assuming
desirable mothering behavior, tend to be better mothers than
younger sows. Older sows produce significantly more milk,
which means the babies grow faster and larger litters are
better-supported. On the other hand, young mothers that aren't
making much milk sometimes create a situation where the
breeder may choose to supplement the babies with an
appropriate milk replacer to help maintain a good growth rate.
Sows with unusually small body size are not
ideal for breeding. In my experience, they are more
susceptible to nursing-induced hypocalcemia than regular or
large-sized sows, and further, their smaller body size does
not reliably translate into smaller fetus sizes. A small
mother may end up carrying more proportional weight during her
pregnancy than a larger-bodied one, making for more
musculoskeletal and physiological stress and maybe increased
potential for injuries.
From a pet breeding perspective, a boar's
maximum breeding age can depend upon the breeders' needs and
desires. A boar will generally be effective at covering a
harem, including sows that may not be completely cooperative,
until he's 3+ years old or something like that. An older boar
who may not be vigorous enough to effectively pursue
uncooperative sows (or is in danger of injuring himself doing
so) may do fine when paired with a single sow with which he
has a good relationship and is allowed to cover post-partum.
Non-pregnant guinea pig sows come into
estrus about every 15 days.
Their pregnancies last a long time for a
small animal -- on average between 64 - 66 days, or maybe you
might see them go as far as 68 days. There are statistics
quoting a range of 57 - 72 days for pregnancies but it's very
uncommon to see the extreme high and low ends of that range.
Litters born at the top and bottom of this time range are
usually associated with problems.
Litters with more babies tend to be
delivered earlier. Litters with fewer babies tend to be born
later. Also, larger sows tend to deliver later than smaller
sows, if you take into account how many babies they are
carrying and relate it to the sow's size.
The longest normal pregnancy and delivery I ever saw was
70 days, the shortest was 63. The 70-day one was with a big
1.2 kg sow carrying a 3-baby litter.
At late pregnancy, sows can have huge
abdomens because of all of the large babies inside. Due to
carrying so much weight, they are prone to injuring their rear
legs or hips if chased (this includes the sow running away
from a human handler) or if harassed by other guinea pigs. In
group housing, it's best to pay attention to the group's
social interactions and be prepared to remove a pursued or
harassed sow to an isolated birthing cage.
Late-pregnancy sows can die to fatal
internal injuries if the sow is over-handled or held in the
wrong positions. Handling during late pregnancy is to be
minimized. If a late-pregnancy sow is being handled, it must
be done carefully and correctly.
There is a catastrophic condition
called pregnancy toxemia. The fetuses die quickly,
plus you frequently lose the sow (in spite of
rehabilitation efforts).
The simple reason it happens is: the guinea pig's
intestine is not processing any food.
To my knowledge the cause of this can be:
- the sow stopped eating, for any reason,
- food cannot move through the digestive tract
for some reason,
- some part of the digestive tract died (such
as the intestines) which is of course
irreversible.
- To my knowledge this can happen because
some mechanical situation caused compression
of important blood vessels in the gut:
- overhandling
- incorrect handling
- or fetus weight and position.
Minimize
handling late-pregnancy sows!
|
Litters and Birthing
The average litter has 3 or 4 babies, but a
range of 2 through 5 is not uncommon. 6 or more is possible.
Consistently super-sized litters of 6 or
more may indicate a problem. In reproductively-normal sows,
some of the fertilized fetuses disappear while they are still
very small. I've read about some sows which have the apparent
problem of this elimination not being very effective.
Litters sized 5 or more are generally
undesirable from a breeding standpoint. Large litters are
proportionally associated with an increase in stillbirths,
result in smaller birth sizes in the babies, contribute to the
likelihood of runts, and cause increased physiological stress
on the sow during the pregnancy and while nursing.
Sows are susceptible to birthing
difficulties (dystocia) due to the proportionally large size
of their babies. Various kinds of malpresentation of fetuses
inside the mother causes this as well.
The best situation for a sow having
birthing difficulties is for the breeder to be in attendance
and directly assist with the birthing process. In my
experience, the breeder's correct and timely actions can
usually save the situation. The sow not getting assistance
with a difficult birth usually results in the death of the
malpresenting or too-large baby (once it finally comes out) as
well as deaths of some of the babies that are delivered after
it, and can in some cases cause the death of the sow.
Babies and birthing aftermath
Newborn guinea pigs are very well-developed
for newborn mammals. They are fully furred, with eyes open,
and are able to see and hear. They are usually able to move
around almost immediately, walk within a few hours, and run
after a few more hours. The only guinea pig I have personally
seen leap clear out of a cage was an unexpectedly-panicked 12
hour old baby. (Plop. It was stunned, but recovered quickly.)
Shortly after a litter is born, the sow has
a post-partum estrus and is usually able to be impregnated for
the next 3.5 hours. The pregnancy rate from post-partum
matings is something like 60% - 80%. Boars frequently
demonstrate interest in the sow both before the delivery and
for several hours after.
Guinea pig sows usually
expel placentas after all the births are complete, but
sometimes placentas will come out in between babies,
especially with larger litters. There is one placenta for each
fetus if you don't take into account the possibility of
identical twins sharing a placenta or strange, conjoined
placentas. Usually, all of the placentas come out within a few
hours, but I had one sow that held onto them for as long as 10
hours.
Sometimes, sows eat placentas. When they do
this, they tend to eat them right after they pull them out. I
have not seen them dig out and gobble down placentas that
became buried in cage litter.
I'm not aware of a study where health
outcomes were compared between sows that ate placentas and
sows that did not. I wonder if this behavior exists because,
during the evolution of wild guinea pigs, leaving placentas
lying around would have attracted predators.
A breeder may not always be aware as to
whether a sow has expelled all placentas. However, if a
breeder is aware that a placenta has not been expelled after
more than 12 hours has passed, that's the threshold where
getting a veterinarian involved would be a good idea. A
retained placenta will be visible to an experienced
small-animal veterinarian on ultrasound. To my knowledge,
retaining a placenta is likely to kill the sow (sooner or
later), but I've never had this problem.
Feeding
In the northern hemisphere, guinea pig
pellets that are formulated specifically for guinea pig
breeding should be fed, in addition to feeding a meal of fresh
vegetable and/or grass ("green feed") at least one time per
day (two times per day on green feed is better).
The best guinea pig breeding pellets I am
aware of are manufactured in 12+ kilogram bags for
laboratories and other professional operations. They are
around 23% protein. In contrast, guinea pig feed produced for
retail sale (often in pretty bags) has been inferior as far as
I've seen. A note: if the protein percent isn't listed on a
package, it can be assumed to be 14%, which is inappropriate
(in my opinion, 14% is not even optimal for a maintenance
diet).
Especially for breeding animals, I can't
recommend that anyone use retarded pellets, no matter how
pretty the bag is or what they print on the bag to try to make
a pet owner think that an otherwise low-grade 14%-protein
pellet is actually amazing.
Hay must be available at all times, as well
as water, which is to be provided in bottles with sipper tubes
or an automatic watering system intended for use with guinea
pigs.
For breeders in the northern hemisphere,
all of the above food items should be considered necessities.
It is not recommended to use pellets intended for other
species such as rabbits -- guinea pigs have different
nutritional requirements (such as a higher magnesium
requirement, as just one, it's not only about vitamin C).
Careless feeding not work well will this species. Guinea pigs
are exotic domesticated rodents originally sourced from
another region of the world, and its ancestral foods are not
available in the northern hemisphere.
Other regions of the world, such as South
America and Africa, can be different. Nutritious, safe,
fresh-green feeds that meet guinea pig nutritional
requirements, and are available year-round, may exist in those
locales, and will be known to local breeders.
Tall fescue is a type of grass that is
common in lawn mixes.
Pregnant guinea pigs must not be
fed tall fescue, or hay products that include tall fescue!
In my experience,
guinea pigs are susceptible to fescue
toxicosis, and it's really bad when it happens.
You could end up with horrible, premature, strange, shaking
babies that aren't viable, and maybe the sow dies afterward,
too. I saw this after I fed a sow overwinter using a hay
product that was misrepresented to me as containing a small
percentage of uninfected tall fescue. The generally
large-bodied sow was healthy at the beginning of her pregnancy
but she put on weight too slowly during the pregnancy, and
then when the babies came, they were ridiculous as described
above.
Definitely do not try to make guinea pigs
subsist on grass in your yard all summer, as though they are
sheep or something. Fescue toxicosis: avoid it like the
plague.
Guinea pigs have no sense of the
conservation of food and water. They are known for:
- pissing and pooping in food bowls, on top of the food
- scattering, trampling, and pissing on hay, rendering it
inedible
- spitting food particles into the sipper tubes of water
bottles
- trampling and scattering and pooping on green feed
- if they were given an open container of water such as a
bowl or dish, they would horribly foul it.
<< Back
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